COURSE REVIEW

No. 16 alone worth
the show at Bermuda's
Port Royal Golf Course

By Tim McDonald,
National Golf Editor

SOUTHAMPTON, Bermuda (Aug. 28, 2006) — Port Royal Golf Course is a Robert Trent Jones Sr. design with oleander-lined fairways, good elevation changes and colorful in that Bermuda way.

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What's not to like?

Add to that the fact it's a public course, and now you have something. It isn't as fancy-shmancy as some of the old, private golf courses on the island — nor are the green fees as hefty — though everything is expensive in Bermuda, as the locals never tire of telling you.

"No, it isn't as pristine as some of the private courses here," said local Lowell Vestbirk. "But you don't really expect that when you play a public course. You want a course that gives you a bit of a challenge and this one does that. I think it's very well laid out. He's kept it challenging most of the way through."

The course is relatively long for Bermuda, being such a tiny island and short on terrain, at 6,561 yards.

You won't be playing much bump-and-run here; many of the greens are elevated — some of them radically so, like Nos. 6 and 7 — making it all the better to see the physical splendor of Bermuda. On No. 7, in fact, on your approach shot, the green is so high up it's framed by nothing but the bright blue Bermuda sky.

The course offers some good risk-reward chances, like the 325-yard 10th. It's a dogleg left that big hitters can carry, but beware: there's a big bunker on the other side of the trees and a valley. You'll have to really whack it to reach the elevated green.

Remember that periodic water shortages in Bermuda cause course conditions to change frequently.

No. 11 is another fun hole. It's a 442-yard par 4, but drivable if you can reach the downward slope off the tee; the ball will roll close to the green. The par-3 11th has the most treacherous green, a radically sloping putting surface back to front has probably caused many a three-putt.

"This green's a bloody nightmare," said Darren Clark, after doing just that.

But, the par-3 16th steals the show. The course calls it its signature hole, and if you play it from the blue tees you'll see why. If you try it from the tips, and you should, you'll be hitting over the ocean and ravine. It's the Bermudian version of Pebble Beach. The green falls off in the back and on the left hand side to a rocky slope leading down to the ocean.

The verdict

Port Royal is an excellent public course, one that you should make a point to play if you're on the island. It doesn't have the fancy trappings of the more exclusive private clubs, but it has a big-name designer, an imaginative layout and cheaper green fees. The greens are rough in spots.

Stay and play

Elbow Beach overlooks the waters of South Shore and close to the capital of Hamilton. The property has 235 rooms including the main building and cottages, all set among 50 acres of gardens that slope down to the beach, which is reserved for guests. Most of the rooms have ocean views.

The main building is more than 90 years old, painted a classic Bermudian shade of yellow. It houses a restaurant, Veranda bar, cigar room, shops, function rooms and a business center. Butler service is available.

There is also a spa, which has six, self-contained suites, with granite soaking tubs, bamboo flooring and river pebble-lined steam showers.

The Pompano Beach Club is a smaller, boutique property. It has cottages, many of them brand new, with terrific ocean views that look like they've come straight from a magazine ad. The owners here are extraordinarily friendly, calling almost all their guests by name.

The spa at the property has all sorts of things they do to you to get you to chill. There are seven types of massage, including chocolate aroma, and lemongrass stress relief. There are body treatments, including the "tutti-frutti salt glow scrub," the "micro buff body polish," and the "serenity mud wrap." If you're not limp by then, they also have baths, like the whipped milk bath and mocha milkshake bubble bath.

Port Royal Golf Course Tee times: (809) 234-0972

The Reefs is also a smaller property, though larger than the Pompano. It also offers cottages with spectacular ocean views — in my room, for example, the ocean filled two picture windows in two different directions. Possibly the best ocean view I've ever had without actually being in the ocean. Each cottage suite has its own "garden setting" with private patio and Jacuzzi.

Dining out

Elbow Beach will do nothing if not feed you; there are no less than seven places to eat and/or drink.

The Seahorse Grill has fine dining, including prime, dry-aged Angus steak dishes. The Veranda Bar, just off the lobby, is Bermuda's first rum bar, Blue Point is a poolside grill, Lido, located just above the beach, has a Mediterranean-influenced menu, Mickey's Beach Bistro and Bar is on the beach and serves more casual food, the Sea Breeze Terrace offers cocktails and Deep is the nightclub.

Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management. The information in this story was accurate at the time of publication. All contact information, directions and prices should be confirmed directly with the golf course or resort before making reservations and/or travel plans.