Golf at Nevis
Four Seasons: Where
green monkeys lurk
and putts break 'uphill'
By Tim McDonald,
National Golf Editor
NEVIS, West Indies, Caribbean (June 24, 2005) - The people who live so quietly
on this small, unspoiled Caribbean island swear the mountain that towers over
and shadows their land is a "she."
Nevis Peak, a 3,232-foot-high dormant volcano wrapped in tropical
vegetation, always seems to be shrouded by mysterious, swirling clouds. Only
occasionally do the clouds part, allowing a peak at the rim.
"Sometimes she lets you see her, sometimes she doesn't," said Sylvia
Thomas, who's lived on the island all her life.
The Four Seasons Resort golf course that lies at the base of the mountain
may not have a gender, but it definitely has teeth.
The course isn't particularly long at 6,682 yards, but it is full of
island mysteries, like the Green Vervet monkeys that can sometimes be seen
scuttling around in the deep foliage.
The course climbs, dips and dives around the base of the mountain, giving
you relief from the tough course with distant, misty vistas of the
Caribbean Sea and the neighboring sister island of St. Kitts - views
that no post card can capture.
When
you turn your attention back to the golf at hand, you'll continue
your battle with the 72 bunkers, rattling elevation changes - 400
feet total - and ravines so deep you'll swear you can hear Chinese
golfers cursing.
"This isn't a course where, just because you have a low handicap, you can
come and think you're going to shoot well," said staff member and local
resident Robert Byron, a five-handicapper who taught himself to play on the
course. "The good thing is, because I learned to play here, other courses
usually seem easy by comparison."
It's a Robert Trent Jones Jr. design, which means that you will find
yourself on the tee box often, tempted to drive there, but
knowing Jones wants you to hit it here. It's the classic struggle of wanting it all, with your dark, imaginary
caddie telling you at the same time you could also lose it all. "Although some holes out here say 'take the driver,' you shouldn't," said
head pro Bruce Wilson. "A lot of his landing areas are very wide. If you hit
to the area he wants you to, you'll do well. If you don't, you could be in
trouble, and have a much more difficult approach.
"For long hitters, he's really forcing you to think about it. That's not
to say you can't use driver all day long if you want. But, be prepared to be
penalized if you miss a little bit."
1No. 15 is the perfect example; this is the hole where the course reaches
its zenith, literally and figuratively. It's the highest point on the
resort, with a commanding view. It's also a 663-yard, downhill par-5 from
the back tees, which includes a 240-yard carry over a 150-foot deep
ravine.
For those teeing off from the forward tees, you can let it fly over the
trees, to cut off some length on the dogleg right, but if you do that, you
cut down the size of the landing area considerably, and could be in the
heavy trees that line both sides.
The smarter play is to use an iron off the tee, hit the fat landing area
and then work hand in hand with the terrain.
"You're better off letting the slope negotiate the hole," Wilson said.
"With two mediocre shots, you can be at the 150-yard marker. It's a hole
that requires more thought than strength. I've been within 180 yards off the
tee, but that's few and far between."
Because of the mountain, the greens are full of subtle breaks hard to
read; some locals say they have seen putts break
uphill.
It's an optical illusion, of course.
"You're going up a mountain, with the grain facing the other way," Wilson
said. "It pushes everything down toward the water, and the setting sun. It
could be flat or downhill; that's the deceiving part of some of these holes.
That grain will hold up a ball. Once you understand the grain, its easier to
start reading the greens."
The
verdict
The Four Seasons course is one of those you won't mind playing again and
again. You'll find yourself after a round thinking about the choices you
made, saying next time will be different.
No. 15 isn't the only strategic hole. The back nine in particular has its
share of risk/reward and other strategic decisions to make, and is also much
more dramatic in terms of scenery. The front nine is relatively flat and
open, as you climb slowly toward the mountain.
If you go, be sure to compete in the weekly scramble, or any other
organized events club officials come up with. They do a great job of getting
just the right balance of competition and camaraderie.
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| Four Seasons Resort
P.O. Box 565,
Pinney's Beach, Charlestown
(869) 469-1111
fourseasons.com/nevis/
index.html
Nisbet Plantation
St. James Parish
(800) 742-6008
NisbetPlantation.com
Oualie Beach Hotel
Oualie Beach
(869) 469-9735
oualie.com
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Stay and play
The Four Seasons is definitely worth the price of admission - rates start
at $295 a night and go up to $635.
The resort offers a "Caribbean Golf Vacation" a seven-day package that
includes: accommodations, unlimited golf with cart, breakfast and dinner for
two each evening, practice range and golf clinic privileges and unlimited,
non-motorized water sports. Rates start at $525 and go to $1,819 depending
on the season.
The resort's rooms are spacious and open to the sea, with private patios.
Luxury villas are also available. Thankfully, there is a "quiet" pool for
adults. The resort grounds are lush and well-manicured and the service is
unrelentingly friendly and efficient.
The resort has won more than its share of hospitality awards, and is
rated highly by the Zagat's Survey.
There are other accommodations on the island, including the Nisbet
Plantation, which dates back to 1778, and, for a cheaper alternative, the
Oualie Beach Hotel.
Dining out
The Four Seasons dining room is a 140-seat, open air restaurant with a
view of the sea. It offers Caribbean dishes, with "French and Asian
influences." The food is excellent; try the lamb chops - made from
Australian lambs. Don't ask my why they're Australian. Neve is the more informal restaurant on the grounds, serving breakfast -
including a remarkable buffet - and dinner. For dinner, it's a mix of
Italian and local food.
At the pool cabana, the Cobb salad with chicken is a great, light meal.
Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management. The information in this story was accurate at the time of publication. All contact information, directions and prices should be confirmed directly with the golf course or resort before making reservations and/or travel plans.
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