Costa Rica:
An Uncut Gem
By Dale Leatherman,
Staff Writer
Photos by Donnelle Oxley
Costa
Rica is a nugget of land about the size of West
Virginia wedged between Nicaragua and Panama
in Central America. Bound by the Caribbean
on the east and the Pacific on the west, it is a naturalist's wonderland.
In this small country, a dozen climactic zones range from lofty cloud
forests to steamy rainforests and dry savannahs. You can drive through
several in a day, along with a 20-degree temperature change. More than
a quarter of the small country is devoted to national parks, providing
sanctuaries for 850 species of birds, 1,200 species of orchids, and countless
animals.
Though its neighbors seem prone to violence and political unrest, Costa
Ricans are peaceful, having ditched the idea of a national army years
ago. Funds earmarked for military were channeled into education instead
- and the country has a high standard of literacy to show for it.
Most Costa Ricans live simply, but they believe life is good. And they say
so constantly: "Pura vida!" Though the Spanish expression literally
means "pure life," Costa Ricans use it for everything that deserves
a positive reaction. They share their joy with tourists and the visitors
catch on quickly. After each hair-raising rapid on the world-class Pacuare
River, rafters slap paddles with their guides and yell "pura vida"
into the wilderness. Sliding along a cable high in the rainforest canopy,
they howl "pura vida!" When a volcano spews fire into the night
sky, witnesses gasp "pura vida!" With miles of deserted beaches
and acres of undeveloped land, Costa Rica is a plum ripe for the plucking
- a fact not lost on Americans who have visited there. Investors have
been pouring money into luxury resorts and planned communities for years.
And many ex-pat Americans have embraced the "good life," Costa
Rican style, such as Landy Blank and his wife Susan. The couple own and
operate Costa Rica Golf Adventures and a golf shop in the Melia Cariari
Resort, and supply clothing and equipment to golf shops all over the country.
Through their touring company the Blanks share their enthusiasm for the
country, arranging custom-made golf, luxury and adventure trips for countless
visitors.
 "As
a golf destination, Costa Rica is on the verge of a boom like Mexico
has experienced," says Landy. Five new courses have opened in as
many years, and more are in the works. "It's the next hot spot to
watch. The combination of world-class courses, friendly people and the
country's rare natural beauty is unbeatable. It's one of the few places
in the world where you can play a golf course by a major architect in
the mornng, swing through the canopy of a rainforest in the afternoon,
and watch an active volcano erupt at night."
The best way to experience Costa Rican golf is on a road trip from resort
to resort, so that you can see the country and meet the people. Be forewarned,
driving is part of the adventure, because many roads are narrow and filled
with potholes. But it's not an country you want to hurry through anyway.
The roadsides are dotted with small, open-air restaurants where you can
enjoy tasty fresh fish, locally harvested palm hearts and cold beer for
$3-$4US. Carvings and other fine crafts found in shops and roadside stands
in the countryside are much cheaper than at the resorts.
 Melia
Cariari Country Club, San Jose
Since most international flights land in the capital city of San
Jose, this is the perfect place to start a golf/adventure trip. More
than 25 years ago George and Tom
Fazio transformed a portion of a former coffee plantation into what
was considered the best course in Central America until the recent advent
of new tracks. It is a beautifully landscaped loop of tight, tree-lined
fairways that rise and fall dramatically and seldom offer a level lie.
Letting the fairways take their natural toll, Tom Fazio saved his bunkering
for near the greens, which are large but fast and often crowned. Cariari
was the site of the 2002 Costa Rica Open, which drew competitors from
all over the world and sent many home chagrined. The course is the centerpiece
of a 220-room resort with a plethora of amenities, including several distinctive
restaurants and a large casino.
 Parque
Valle del Sol
Located a short drive from San Jose, the "Valley of the Sun"
course is a recent Tracy May redesign of a track started by an American
in the 1970s. The revival of the golf course has revived the surrounding
residential development, too, and there's a lot of housing construction
going on. Fortunately, most of the windows are out of range, because strong,
gusting winds can make playing here a game of chance for the first-time
visitor. On windy days, the 13 water hazards become quite diabolical.
The coup de grace comes on the final hole, a 630-yard uphill trek to a
green blocked by a spreading tree. On the rare calm day, the course is
a pussycat, and one can only hope that the foliage will quickly mature
into windbreaks.
Paradisus
Playa Conchal Resort. Guanacaste
The Garre de Leon ("Lion's Paw") course is Latin America's first
Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary, a fact that becomes abundantly clear early
on as a zoo's allotment of colorful birds and animals dart, swoop, dash
or simply sit and watch the passing procession of golfers. They have plenty
of places to hide from errant shots, for the fairways are lined with dense,
flowering foliage.
 Through
this delicate environment (and with careful oversight from the naturalists)
Robert
Trent Jones Jr. routed wide fairways studded with vast sand bunkers,
reedy lagoons and several ravines choked with vegetation. The greens are
generous, but often tiered or sculpted into tricky fall lines. The 7,080-yard
track is located on high ground, with views of the Pacific Ocean, distant
mountains and the red tile roofs of the resort.
The all-inclusive luxury resort is located on a beautiful 1.5-mile stretch
of beach. The 300 guestrooms are mini-suites with elevated sleeping areas
and private balconies. At the center of the sprawling complex is an enormous
freeform pool with waterfalls, rock outcroppings and shady alcoves for
lounging. Five open-air restaurants serve a variety of cuisines.
 Hacienda
Pinella, Guanacaste
Not far from Paradisus Playa Conchal, an upscale resort community is taking
shape on a 5,000-acre beachfront cattle farm. A day-trip to this place
is a must, to play the 7,500-yard course designed by Mike Young. The course
is groomed to perfection for the handful of players from hotels in Tamarindo
or Playa Conchal, so you'll have plenty of time to savor the experience
and the marvelous Tif Eagle greens, the only ones in Central America.
The site is relatively flat, but Young created depth and challenge with
invisible pot bunkers and tall stands of high grasses. The greens repel
boarders, so the cautious run-up is a must. Like Valle del Sol, this course
is blasted by 30 to 50mph winds, and is much meeker on the rare quiet
day. Evening brings out the shadows and the promise of a beautiful sunset
over the beach near the fourteenth hole.
Los Suenos
Marriott Ocean and Golf Resort
Here's a perfect example of American infatuation with Costa
Rica - and the vision and funds to act on it. Six years ago, the scenario
at Herradura Bay southwest of San Jose was much like Hacienda Pinella
- a cattle farm and an American with a dream (Los Suenos is Spanish for
dream). But California developer Bill Royster has established a luxurious
golf resort and world-class marina, and completed three elegant residential
communities - with more to come. The resort's 6,700-yard Ted Robinson
Jr. design has a unique and often dramatic setting - a combination of
a narrow river valley inhabited by howler monkeys and a pretty oceanside
plain.
Four
Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo
Scheduled to open in late 2003, this luxury resort occupies a sandy peninsula,
with great private beaches on both sides and a panoramic view of two bays.
The course is an Arnold Palmer design. Stay tuned for a complete course
review.
When You Go
Hacienda Pinilla, (506) 680-3000, www.haciendapinilla.com
Los Suenos Marriott Resort, (800) 333-9361, (506) 630-9000,
www.marriott.com
Melia Cariari Resort and Country Club, (506) 293-3211
Paradisus Playa Conchal, (506) 654-4123, www.playaconchalresort.com
Parque Valle del Sol, (506) 282-9222
The best times to visit Costa Rica are December and February, the early
part of the dry season. The rainy season lasts from May to November but
mornings are usually sunny during this time.
The international airport in San Jose is about a 3-hour flight from Miami,
Atlanta, Houston
or Dallas. Continental's non-stop flight from Newark is 4 hours..
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