Nevis remains a classic, rural Caribbean island
NEVIS, West Indies, Caribbean - You cannot help but appreciate the irony when a big resort lures you to its "undiscovered" Caribbean paradise.
How can a place be "undiscovered" when thousands of tourists are coming and going? Obviously, it's been discovered by someone other than Christopher Columbus, namely a chain resort and its accountants.
That isn't to say the Four Seasons Resort hasn't been a positive force for the tiny, Caribbean island of Nevis in most ways. A sprawling complex on Pinney Beach, the resort grounds are immaculately groomed, taking the lush, tropical foliage of the island and showing it off in a well-mannered and garden-like display, so different from the natural and unruly growth elsewhere on the five-by-seven mile island.
"When I'm here, it makes me forget I'm on Nevis," said Nevis nativeSylviaThomas.
Before the Canadian-owned resort arrived, unemployment hovered at around20-25 percent on the island, a short ferry ride away from its sisterisland of St. Kitts. Nevisians were leaving the island in droves, in search of work. The sugar industry was kaput.
The Four Seasons arrived in 1991 and now there is work for virtually everyone who wants it. Of the approximately 11,000 people on the island,the resort employs a whopping 700.
The boost has sent out ripples affecting the entire island. Smallbusinesses are flourishing. Expatriate Nevisians are returning to their nativeisle, assured of employment. The economy, in almost every way, has improved.The small but clean bustling waterfront of Charlestown, the island capital,is home to thriving shops, restaurants, bars and vendors selling theirwares.Even the sociology of the island has improved; with more males returninghome, two-parent households are becoming the norm once again.
But, not all of the island's residents are happy about the changes,which are expected to become even more acute. Growth always brings concomitantproblems and Nevis is no different: increased traffic and crime, to nametwo negative impacts."I used to leave my key on a hook outside my door," said Jim Johnson,who arrived on the island in the 1960s with the Peace Corps and stayed."That meant I wasn't home, and you could come in if you needed anything. Ican't do that any more."Other Nevisians tell similar stories. "There wasn't any crime when wefirst came here," said Hamilton Estates resident Adell Howell, who has alsolived on the island for years. "We never locked our doors. Now, we haveto."
Of course, that is probably true of most places on earth nowadays, especially those that have gone through the sort of changes Nevis has. And even though some crime has increased, Nevis is still one of the safest islands in the Caribbean. If you took a poll, the majority or Nevisians would most likely tell you the Four Seasons has been a life-saver for the island.
The resort tries hard to blend in, and it appears as though it hassucceeded for the most part. Johnson, a biologist, has even credited the resort's strict policies for helping with the island's environment. Guests areasked to respect that.
And it isn't as though Nevis has turned into a commercial,tourist-loaded Carib isle, like St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Nevis is still aclassic, rural Caribbean island, where the cab drivers know many of the wandering goats by name.
The friendliness, both from the locals working on the resort staff andthose who don't, is genuine - not the forced pleasantries you sometimes findin Caribbean tourist destinations. And of course, the resort's securitystaff keeps even the petty crimes at bay.
Island politics are typically Caribbean: one party always accusing theother of various shenanigans, the other countering the accuser of trying toincite violence. Nothing usually comes of it, but more talk. Like mostmulti-island states in the Caribbean, there has been talk of secession - in thiscase from St. Kitts - but neither has anything come of that.
Most of this is good news for traveling golfers, who have their choiceof several options, including one great 18-hole course at the Four Seasons.On St. Kitts, there is a very good nine-holer and a very bad nine-holer youwouldn't want to take a donkey to.
The course at the Four Seasons was designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr.,and it's a classic Jones Jr. layout: options galore. Backed by theimplacable Nevis Peak, the course takes you up the mountain's base and back down,and there are wide and distant views of the Caribbean Sea and neighboringSt. Kitts along the way.
This isn't a course built just for the scenery, although many people useit for that. Nor is it built for the timid: Elevation changes, tightfairways, forced carries - try the back tee at No. 15 for a 240-yard carry over a mammoth ravine that seems to drop off to the center of the earth - andother hazards make this a course to be reckoned with. Wait until after theround for your rum punch; this course will sober you up.
The Royal St. Kitts Golf Club on nearby St. Kitts, at Frigate Bay, is dramatically different than the Four Seasons course. It's flat, for one thing, and the views of the ocean are more intimate here, so close youcan hear the roar of the pounding surf on the reef. So close, you will most likely lose one of two of your golf balls in saltwater.
And, unlike the Four Seasons, there is plenty of water here at theMarriott course. Most of the water is on the right - bad news for right-handerswith a slice.
The nine holes underwent an extensive renovation recently, and anothernine is scheduled to open in November, hopefully in time for the busyDecember schedule, putting the course in more direct competition with the Four Seasons.
The nine-hole Golden Rock Golf Club lays adjacent to the airport on St. Kitts. Although heavy rains made the course actually look green on arecent visit, locals say ordinarily it's so bad that after you hit your teeshot, the rule here is to hunt for a patch of grass to drop for your second shot.
St. Kitts is clearly the more cosmopolitan of the two islands, with acasino and nightlife in Basseterre, capital of the two-island independent state.
Nevis is where you want to go to unwind, particularly if you're intowater sports. The Caves is an intricate series of coral grottoes 40 feet deepfor scuba divers and there are plenty of opportunities for snorkelers. For surfers, try Windward beach on the Atlantic side. There is also sailing,windsurfing, horseback riding and guided nature hikes up themountain.
For the more sedate, there is the Museum of Nevis History, the AlexanderHamilton House (Hamilton, the U.S. politician who shot Aaron Burr, wasborn on Nevis), and the Fig Tree Church, which has a record of the marriage between Admiral Horatio Nelson and Fanny Nisbet on Nevis.
For the truly adventurous, a stop on Nevis is not complete until youvisit Sunshine's Bar - with its potent Killer Bees - next to the Four Seasons,on the beach.
The Four Seasons dining room is a 140-seat, open air restaurant with aview of the sea. It offers Caribbean dishes, with "French and Asianinfluences." The food is excellent; try the lamb chops - made from Australian lambs.Don't ask my why they're Australian.
Neve is the more informal restaurant on the grounds, serving breakfast -including a remarkable buffet - and dinner. For dinner, it's a mix of Italian and local food.
At the pool cabana, the Cobb salad with chicken is a great, lightmeal.
Stay and play
The Four Seasons is definitely worth the price of admission - ratesstart at $295 a night and go up to $635.
The resort offers a "Caribbean Golf Vacation" a seven-day package that includes: accommodations, unlimited golf with cart, breakfast and dinnerfor two each evening, practice range and golf clinic privileges andunlimited, non-motorized water sports. Rates start at $525 and go to $1,819depending on the season.
The resort's rooms are spacious and open to the sea, with privatepatios. Luxury villas are also available. Thankfully, there is a "quiet" poolfor adults. The resort grounds are lush and well-manicured and the serviceis unrelentingly friendly and efficient.The resort has won more than its share of hospitality awards, and israted highly by the Zagat's Survey.
There are other accommodations on the island, including the Nisbet Plantation, which dates back to 1778, and, for a cheaper alternative, the Oualie Beach Hotel.
June 4, 2005