U.S. Virgin Islands:
an American paradise
By Dale Leatherman
U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS -- (March 2005) -- There are about 50 islands
in the U.S. Virgin
Islands, some no bigger than rocks breaking the surface where
the Atlantic meets the Caribbean.
In 1917, the United States paid $25 million to Denmark for the three
principal islands -- St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix to use as
bases to protect the Panama Canal. The purchase has proven to be
a bargain, but not for military reasons. The islands are the most
popular tourist destination in the Caribbean,
drawing more than 2 million visitors per year. The USVIs are prized
for their unsullied natural beauty, convenient location (2 ½
hours from Miami), and a cultural diversity that includes residents
from Africa, England, Holland, Denmark, Spain,
France, India and the U.S.
The climate in the islands seldom varies more than a few degrees
year-round from 76 to 82 degrees and the only spoiler is the occasional
hurricane during late summer/early fall.
There are only three golf courses in the islands, but they can be the
icing on the cake of a memorable Caribbean vacation.
St. Croix
St. Croix is the largest of the USVIs -- 82 square miles of hilly
terrain covered with lush tropical vegetation and ringed by white
sand beaches. There are two main towns, Christiansted and Fredericksted,
both of them pretty architectural gems with a Danish influence dating
to the 1700s.
You'll
pass through Christiansted on your way to the Buccaneer
Hotel and Golf Course, a comfortable, upscale resort which
has been in the Armstrong family for nine generations, since 1922.
Conde Nast Traveler readers have voted it one of the world's
top 50 tropical resorts -- and with good reason. The 17th-century
estate combines history, service, luxury and a gorgeous natural
setting overlooking the sea.
Some of the best views are from 13 holes on the Buccaneer Golf
Course, a 5,685-yard par-70 layout designed by Long Island (NY)
PGA pro Bob Joyce in 1973. The course (rating/slope=67.3/116) has
been renovated many times since then, and has just undergone a new
round of improvements which included a new green at the edge of
the sea.
The first three holes climb to one of the most beautiful views
on the island. From the third green a par 3 that can require anything
from a 4-iron to a wedge, depending on the wind you can see Christiansted
Harbor to the west, the islands of St. Thomas and St. John to the
north, and to the east Buck Island Reef National Park.
Though the Buccaneer Course it is short, the route is spiced with inland
water, impenetrable rough and many uphill and downhill fairways.
Carambola Villa Golf and Beach Resort
This
former "Rock Resort" built by Laurance Rockefeller in
the early 1960s is tucked into a remote cove on a pretty beach just
20 minutes from the island's international airport. Rustic villas
are tucked into the palm trees along the beach. In 1966 Robert
Trent Jones Sr. routed the golf course through an upland valley
with majestic mahogany trees and groves of bamboo and palms. The
6,843-yard course plays to a par of 72, with water a factor on eight
holes. Carambola is known for its par 3s, among the best in the
Caribbean.
For instance, the seventeenth hole's elevated green lies on the
far side of a huge, sometimes water-filled gully, a 185-yard effort.
The hotel and 900 acres of Rockefeller's original property has
been sold and is being developed as a residential/resort community
with beach and golf villas.
The troubling news is that 2,800 acres zoned for development including
the golf course and club house is for sale. Maintenance on the golf
course has varied widely in the past. Sometimes it is well-watered
by rainfall and groomed to the proverbial "T." Other times
it is bone-dry and overgrown with weeds. While its fate is uncertain,
I recommend calling the course and trying to get an honest answer
regarding the condition.
Without doubt the design is a gem, a classic Trent Jones tactical test
with inland lakes and more than 100 bunkers adding to the natural challenges.
At one time Golf magazine gave Carambola a gold medal as one of
the top golf resorts in the world. Golf
Digest gave it four stars. One can only hope that the developers
add another 18-hole track to the property and restore this golf destination
to the status it deserves.
Where to Stay on St. Croix
The Buccaneer Hotel -- Because of its wide range of activities
and children's programs, the 148-room hotel is a prime family destination.
All rooms, suites and villas have patios or balconies, most with
ocean views. Facilities include two swimming pools, eight tennis
courts, three beaches, a spa and fitness center and a water sports
center.
The Buccaneer
P.O. Box 25200
Gallows Bay
Christiansted
St. Croix, USVI 00824
(800) 255-3881
(340) 712-2100
Carambola
Villas Golf and Beach Resort Built in the 1960s, Carambola is
a secluded luxury resort with a nice beach, 157 rustic villas, two
restaurants, a swimming pool and a full complement of activities,
including great scuba diving on a wall a few yards offshore.
Carambola Villas
72 Estate River,
Kingshill
St. Croix, USVI 00851
(800) 323-7241
Other lodging
There are many small hotels, inns and B&Bs in Christiansted and
Fredericksted. Visit http://usvi.lodgingguide.net.
Where to Dine on St. Croix
Frommer's Guide to the Caribbean says that St. Croix's "independently
owned restaurants are among the best in the Caribbean." Here
are a few highlights:
The
Buccaneer (340-712-2100) The resort's four dining options include
the open-air Terrace Restaurant and air-conditioned Brass Parrot,
both serving classic dishes with Caribbean overtones. The beachside
Mermaid has a full lunch menu, and the poolside Grotto Grill serves
burgers and hot dogs.
Carambola Golf Club's Terrace Restaurant (340-778-5638) is famous
for its black bean soup and other local dishes
Johnny Mango's Caribbean Barbecue (340-778-5556) in Christiansted
is a local favorite for ribs, chicken and brisket.
Indies Restaurant (340-692-9440) in Christiansted specializes in
fresh produce and seafood served in an 18th-century garden.
Top Hat Restaurant (340-773-2346) continental cuisine in an historic
townhouse.
Visit stcroixdining.com
Other Activities on St. Croix
Buck Island Reef National Monument A snorkeler's and beach lover's paradise,
St. Croix's "Fantasy Island" covers 700 acres of ocean around
a small island with a hiking trail, observation tower and great beach.
A snorkeling trail has underwater markers describing flora and fauna.
Sightseeing Attractions include St. George Village Botanical Garden,
an 18th-century Danish Plantation House, historic Fredericksted,
the Rain Forest, Whim Greathouse, St. Croix Leap and the Cruzan
Rum Distillery.
Nightlife Resorts and the towns of Christiansted and Fredericksted
have nightspots featuring steel bands, calypso/reggae, jazz and
other entertainment.
Land sports Most resorts have tennis courts, beach volleyball,
and other land activities
Water sports Local vendors (and some of the larger resorts) provide scuba
diving, parasailing, sport fishing, windsurfing, and sailing and snorkeling
tours. Full and half-day excursions often include lunch on a remote beach.
St. Thomas
This
33-square-mile island contains the capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands
Charlotte Amalie, the most popular cruise port in the Caribbean.
Pink and cream houses dot green hills overlooking the harbor. Old
Danish warehouses line streets off the waterfront and lead to a
sprawling duty-free shopping area popular with tourists.
Twenty minutes from Charlotte Amalie is the island's only golf
course. The 6,525-yard par-70 cast into the spotlight during President
Clinton's administration, when the First Family retreated to St.
Thomas for R&R, and the President hacked around Mahogany
Run.
Since then, in a million-dollar renovation, the soil quality of
the course was revitalized and the greens were re-turfed with salt-resistant
Seashore Paspalum grass. The greens were also reshaped, bunkers
were cleaned and filled with Barbuda sand atop new drainage systems.
The
14th hole is touted as one of the most beautiful in the world. No
argument here. From the tee, the 173-yard par-3 drops over a sheer
cliff to the oceanside green below. Fourteen is the middle hole
of the course's "Devil's
Triangle," three holes so tough that certificates are awarded
to those escaping without a penalty stroke. Thirteen is a 363-yard
par-4. The 564-yard par-5 15th hole, the No. 1 handicap, requires
an 80-yard forced carry to the green, which has been wisely doubled
to 6,000 square feet.
If you're in the area, this tight, trappy mountainous course is
a must play, if only for the scenery and perhaps that prize on the
Devil's Triangle.
Mahogany Run Golf Club
PO Box 7517
St. Thomas, USVI 00801
(340) 777-6250
st-thomas.com/mahogany/
Where to Stay on St. Thomas
The island has a plethora of resorts, inns and hotels large and small,
including well known properties such as the Ritz Carlton, the historic
Frenchman's Reef Resort, Bluebeard's Beach Club, Bluebeard's Castle and
Bolongo Bay Beach Resort. Visit usvi.net for details.
Where to Dine on St. Thomas
You name it, it's here Asian, Irish, French, Caribbean, Continental,
European, Greek, Italian, Mexican and Vegetarian. There are nearly
200 restaurants on this tiny island. Visit usvi.net.
Other Activities on St. Thomas
Sightseeing -- Estate St. Peter Greathouse & Botanical Gardens, Blackbeard's
Castle, Bluebeard's Castle, Fort Christian and Market Square. Water sports
A dozen companies offer all water sports and sea cruises among the islands.
St. John
The smallest of the Virgins, St. John is 28 square miles of natural
beauty. There is no golf course here, just beautiful beaches and
pristine national park land laced with trails. Accommodations vary
from the world-class Caneel Bay and Hyatt Regency resorts to primitive
campsites and the Maho Bay Camps, the ultimate in eco-lodging. If
your stay in the USVIs allows, take the ferry to bustling Cruz Bay
and explore St. John.
Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management. The information in this story was accurate at the time of publication. All contact information, directions and prices should be confirmed directly with the golf course or resort before making reservations and/or travel plans.
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